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Posts Tagged ‘lithium ion’

Optimists have been wrong about EV adoption as predictions have been set too high. EV sales only account for around 1% in the U.S. and majority of it is Tesla model 3 in California. After seeing the 5 hour Tesla pileup at a supercharger station I’m sure a few of the owners have gotten rid of them. Of course some of them are loyal to a fault and this isn’t really good especially when EVs have a set of problems.

In Chicago there are a couple charging outlets for apartment dwellers but having 2 outlets is not good for those who want to wake up to a full charge and since some of them have time limits its going to be difficult for those who may be on vacation and want to come back to a full charge. It may be difficult for those who are thinking of buying one and worry about having access to them. Then there is the cost to install a charger for these EVs. It affects rent and will bring the rent fee up. That depends whether it effects all the residents or those who only choose to buy one, however I would be looking for an apartment that doesn’t have this extra cost as others will because who wants to pay more for rent for stuff they wont ever use.

So despite there could be a charger for an EV at one apartment, if you decide to move you may not get the ability to charge and will end up going back to gas.

And if it was as easy to have an outlet more apartments would include them for engine block heaters or battery chargers for gasoline vehicles. In my experience though, the 10 or so apartments I’ve lived at didn’t have outlets for cars. Neither I saw the 20 or 30 either. Living in the Midwest having an engine block heater would be nice and again, car companies would have made these engine block heaters standard so the vehicles are already ready to go with the cabin heater pumping out heat within a minute. But this never happened. Its only if you have access to a plug is where you are able to ask for an engine block heater and again most vehicles I seen dont have them. Its always been an option most likely an aftermarket piece that was probably more for diesel engines than gasoline. If you see a plug like an extension cord sticking out the front grill, that’s generally for an engine block heater that’s just sitting there.

So with this in mind, no.. power outlets won’t be in every parking space, nor will they exist in many apartment/condos or for street parking. Even if one apartment does add more charging spots, its only if the demand is there. It’s unlikely that will happen seeing as many will continue buying gas vehicles.

The argument is, gasoline vehicles ran into the same problems. Not enough gas stations. People didnt change over from horse and carriage overnight. Even then you just drove where there was a gas station. It was also easy to build gas stations as well due to the vast amount of places to put them. And if you needed to go somewhere where there wasn’t a gas station you took a horse. And who knows, the range on the early cars could have been all you needed. Driving more than 20 miles in may have seemed silly back then. Now people go over 500 miles on a trip. But the transition from gas to electric may take far longer or it may not happen at all. Its dependent on every parking space at home to have a charging outlet and that’s unlikely, especially when someone can come along and unplug it while you are trying to wake up to a full charge, people will do something like this and cause mayhem for many motorists. Charging an EV can take over 30 minutes and wouldn’t work when the convenience of having a 5 minute refuel time on a gas vehicle. So even if there was charging outlets at home it would still make sense to have faster recharge times which would reduce the lifespan of the batteries. Cold climates is another problem as you lose 40% of your charge due to heating the cabin and keeping the battery warm. This also doesnt work for apartment renters. Those 2 outlets will be a fight if 3 or more people want to keep their batteries charging overnight forcing the landlord to consider adding more charging stations driving up renting even higher depending on whether they make all residents pay or just the EV owners. In turn I recommend people who are looking for apartments to avoid the apartments that have charging stations as they might be paying more rent for something they’ll never use.

2019 had very lacking EV sales. There are claims that pre orders for the new Tesla truck and other EVs in the works are selling out. Seems like a selling point to me as car companies can boast about preorder sales when the product hasn’t even been completed as the sale has not been completed. That 50k or so pre orders can end up as 5k. Or it can be 100k. Pre orders is not actual sales.

Also looking at actual used EV inventories most used EVs are either EVs from 2012 or the used Teslas that is still $50k too high. Seeing how its mostly Teslas out on the road, eventually those high resale values is going to drop like a bowling ball. So while city mandates could force apartment owners to install charging outlets the demand may remain small as you can move to another city that doesnt have charging outlets available. In effect people will not gamble they will have the ability to charge everywhere. No matter what some EV enthusiasts say, there isnt charging outlets in every apartment. If you park your vehicle at home and dont see an outlet you’re not going to consider getting an EV. Even if they were to be standard it’s unlikely you’ll still consider one if you are not in the market buying one.

The government, EV enthusiasts and environmentalists all would like to force people to buy one and not let the free market decide and if it was total free market, electric vehicles wouldn’t stand a chance which is why the extreme push for them. That wont work either, not unless EVs exceed everything a gasoline vehicle can and its unlikely that will happen until the 2040s and even then there at least will be another 20 years before they would dominate roads. Unless of course we allow politicians to get in the way of allowing people to drive gas cars freely and tax free. Bottom line is the future is bleak if people get their way and force everyone onto EVs.

For me, Honda and Toyota gas vehicles are proven. They’re not broken and last forever on the orginal drivetrain (usually, anyways) so I dont see any need to replace them with batteries.

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As if the fire hazard for EVs wasn’t bad enough we got Teslas with bad wheels…

ec7f6f293b94f45b8ec4724589eff54218c278f3images (10)

Seems scary right, well herehere’s more in a flicker collection, Tesla – Whompy Wheels

Go ahead and look, I’ll wait…

It seems like Teslas are just unsafe period. With the model 3 out it’ll be interesting what could be wrong with it, oh by the way..

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It’s kind of hard to see but you’d notice it right away if you seen it up close in person. The picture doesn’t really show it, well it does but it doesn’t show the other side which is claimed to be perfect.  It’s just another thing wrong with Teslas and why people should avoid them.

Tesla recently announced that they are going online only and that’s not good for a company that can’t even keep up demand like other auto companies can do. With the Tesla 3 out for a couple of weeks, the fanatics only had a theory on how much were sold or preordered which is like 500-1,000.

Unlike Ford which usually has vehicles ready to be sold in auto dealerships sold out the Ford Ranger within 2 weeks, The New Ford Ranger Is in Crazy Demand up to 300,000 people are interested in the 2019 Ranger and while it’s possible that like the article says, people can bail out at any time but already they’re being sold quite well,

Ford Ranger U.S. Sales
January: 2,153
Febuary: 2,899
Total: 5,052

That’s pretty impressive. It’ll be interesting how many will sell through the year but it’s already a strong beginning and that’s just for the U.S.

I was already considering one and since they got a diesel version, that’s even better, though it may be awhile I hope to find a used one that has been well taken care of. Anyway in comparison to Tesla, Tesla pushes delivery timeline for new standard Model 3 orders as demand soars “550 vehicles in about 2 days”
In 2 days isn’t bad but to say 5,000+ orders happened by Elektrek is a bit premature. You also have to remember that this model 3 started later and the reliability factor has been pretty bad for Tesla so they could have pushed back the timeline for better quality and oh there’s less workers as Tesla is downsizing so a month could mean 700 vehicles have been purchased but it’ll take that long to make them. Either way we need actual sale numbers, not predictions. The fact any EV sells 5k units in a month is a bit premature and these EV enthusiasts will try to make it sound like Tesla is doing well.

In fact CR has dropped Tesla 3 as reliable, Tesla Model 3 Loses CR Recommendation Over Reliability Issues

The fact is there really is no reliable Tesla. There are problems with them, as shown above and while they may sell quite a few units, if they do rush them out these problems will become worse. So I don’t believe that 5k+ will sell within a month, even though it’s already March most of these sales would most likely be from Tesla fanatics who want to see Tesla survive even though they can’t make a quality vehicle. This is expected with a major automotive company that produces an abundance of vehicles that need to meet the needs of millions of consumers a year. It’s normal to have defects but you don’t normally see a Camaro lose it’s wheels and the paint job is always superb. If not they’ll bend over backwards for you to get satisfaction out of your brand new vehicle, usually anyway. Bottom line is we’ll have to wait and see on actual numbers. While Tesla may have sold a lot of units 4th quarter, 60k units sold 4th quarter that’s abysmal for any automotive company. Dodge Challenger sales for an example is pretty low in general but Dodge cares about performance over sales and it may pick up a little before they release their hybrid models.

Honda for an example, Honda sales collapse should be worrisome from the company and its possible it’s less due to people shifting to larger vehicles and sales of EVs and performance vehicles are part of the lack of sales. It might change then it might not. All I know is anytime I think of Tesla I see this,

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

And I have to say Teslas are just no good, overpriced junk. Here are some reasons not to buy a Tesla or EVs in general.

Reason #1: The lithium ion batteries.

1. If the batteries overheat they become very dangerous. It’s only a matter of time before they start exploding due to faulty engineering or just that something stops working correctly or someone decides to try to DIY or modify a Tesla or other EV they’ll end up in an explosive fire.

2. Recharge time still takes too long and it’ll take you more time to find a charging station than it is to find a gas station to refuel a gas vehicle. A lack of garages also makes it difficult to charge overnight. A family with multiple vehicles, or you just have more than what your garage can take, recharging can be difficult and its both tacky and dangerous to run an extension cord.

3. Lifespan claims to be 500k or 20 years but real world averages need to come into play and it’ll be another 15-20 years to get proper results.

4. Lithium ion technology isn’t easy to mine or produce. Child labor for lithium mines is a problem and could get worse as demands for lithium will increase. The price will also go up.

5. They don’t like the cold, you lose over 40% of power in 20F or lower. Generally the lower the temp the less charge you have. Sure you can do some tricks and leave the thing plugged in but it uses more power and it will prematurely wear out the heater in your car. Most likely will end up not having heat on the worst day.

6. Batteries make used EVs more difficult to sell, the cost to replace one is over $10,000. Who would buy one even if it’s fairly cheap when they’ll have to fork out money that could go towards a good $10k Gas vehicle.

Reason #2: Reliability and longevity.

It just doesn’t seem like Tesla can get their reliability up and this was already mentioned in this article. Whether major automotive EVs such as GM will have reliable vehicles will be interesting but should avoid at all costs. The Nissan Leaf has terrible battery life and you’ll be replacing it in 10 years, maybe less. Frustrated buyers will go back to gas.

Batteries have a finite lifespan so it’s not the same as a gas vehicle engine that can potentially last 100 years if properly stored. It’s also difficult to find a recharging station so you have to drive around to find one. Not everyone has a garage capable of recharging an EV. Also you lose up to 40% of power in the cold climates. You could leave it plugged in with the heater running but as I said above, your heater will die unexpectedly. Gas vehicles you just start, let it warm up for a few and your ready to go. A full tank of gas won’t lose 40% overnight.

Reason #3: Resale value.

Resale value will continue to be extremely low and some like Teslas may be high but most people who buy preowned/used vehicles don’t have a garage. It takes certain dedication to wait hours for your EV to recharge, something that most people don’t have time for. So these vehicles will sit and deteriorate in used dealership lots. I doubt even the most dedicated Tesla fanboys will buy them when no one else will. It’s just financial stupidity.

Either way resale values for EVs will either continue to be extremely low or will plummet because used dealerships won’t sell them. While there is no real world data on this I talked to a few local used dealers who keep a few EVs in the back of the lot if anyone wants them but they dont sell so they get rid of most of the trade in EVs. No point in keeping them if they won’t sell. Used dealer won’t give you a whole lot and the depreciation of an EV after even several years is over 75% of lost value. Just imagine a 10 year old EV. It would be worth the same as a 30 year old gas vehicle.

Reason #4: You need electricity to recharge.

I don’t want a vehicle that uses the same power source as my fridge. Electricity costs are low and I like it that way. Mass EV usage will increase electrical loads and will artificially raising the price of electricity. Sure it’s cheap now and its cheaper than filling your tank up with gas but as demand goes up so will costs. Already companies are being coaxed into switching to more efficient lighting and raise up the temps of air conditioners so it runs less often. So we already are sacrificing comfort in the name of EVs. Pretty soon we’ll be told to turn off air conditioners throughout the day and limit our tv watching. Or we can stick with gasoline vehicles.


Reason #5: The future is not determined yet.

If you still haven’t been deterred from buying an EV yet consider the fact that electrical vehicles may not be the future. It hasn’t made a dent in vehicle ownership and will remain low for many years to come. In 10 or 20 years they may come out with a 0% emissions gas vehicle and find alternative fuels. A combustion engine is still far from total extinction and we may have them for years to come. Whether they are run on gas or some synthetic fuel they are still here to stay.

Lots of issues with EVs from unknown battery longevity, if many of them stay parked for years we’ll find out if they last 15 years or 50 years. Some batteries in EVs and hybrids have already needed replacing so it’s doubtful they’ll last even 25 years. Internal combustion engines have a 100 year lifespan. Of course usage is a factor and will reduce the life of that engine everytime you drive it to the store or drive 30 miles to work. But bottom line is they are proven. EVs still have to prove themselves.

They catch fire if punctured, the cold climates reduce range and power output by 40%, lack of overnight charging for many and the resale value is what is keeping most from buying one. I have the money and the means to buy one, however I don’t want one for the above reasons. I am familiar with lithium ion technology and I don’t trust them to power my car. I don’t want an unreliable Tesla with crappy paint jobs and terrible suspension and handling components. Not to mention the price and the lack of range when cold and I don’t want to wear out my heater by leaving it run all night causing the electric bill to go up higher. I like the low cost of electricity. I don’t have to worry about how much electricity im using by watching tv or how many times I open my garage door. Mass EV adoption would change that.

Also lack of maintence of a mass EV adoption will lessen jobs all over the globe. It’s already happening with GM closing factories. Those people lost their jobs most likely due to a few thousand EV adopters. I don’t know this information first hand but it’s a little interesting that an EV adoption rate will lower sales of the Chevy Cruze.

So with this in mind, just avoid aknd ignore EVs for now. It hasn’t become the future, considering you can still buy gas cars I’d focus on that. While Teslas model 3 might sell those sales will drop once the fanboys get their fix.

Edit: One thing I forgot to add, Tesla crashes into river, owner claims it accelerated on its own
I wouldn’t be surprised if this really did happen, but it’s hard to say whether the Teslas do accelerated out of control. It might be a good idea to avoid them for now. Most Tesla owners wouldn’t be lying about it though, most of them are Tesla fanboys who would still say Teslas are great cars. To say it accelerated out of control shows that maybe there is a problem with them. Whatever it is, it doesn’t matter wheels falling off and exploding batteries are enough to keep away from them, EVs from major manufacturers are just cheap and I wouldn’t buy one. Once the craze ends and there is not a chance for EVs to take over the U.S. then maybe if they were under $500. I probably wouldn’t keep one for long though.

Actually not, this guy had his foot off of the pedal and the Tesla software for the car claims he had hit the gas when the driver claimed he didnt, Sudden Unintended Acceleration – Forum the computer must have been falsely detecting pedal movement. I don’t trust EVs even more now. It sounds like to me that Tesla doesn’t even care if it was a software glitch. Either way something is off with this. It may just be the soft braking of these vehicles are not completely safe. At this point I really don’t want an EV and I don’t recommend them.

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Yes another EV post but this one should be taken seriously as there is a fire risk with the batteries.

Tesla driver dies in horrible crash and the battery won’t stop burning

There is Teslas on the road who get into accidents and survive. Internal combustion engines (gas vehicles) do also catch fire some are defects others are from poor maintence and some are just freak fires.

EV batteries, lithium ion do not generally cause a fire or explode. Usually that happens due to defects, improper battery replacements or using an incorrect cord. EV batteries also store a ton more energy so recharging them would require an outlet that is capable of handling that sort of power.

However the biggest threat is that if the battery is punctured, the battery can explode. Tesla does use materials to protect the battery in an accident but they can still be punctured. Look up lithium battery explosions on YouTube and you’ll understand how dangerous these batteries can be.

Until they can come up with a safer method for a futuristic cleaner vehicle it’s best to stick with gas vehicles. An EV enthusiast will try to claim otherwise that they are safer but the fact the batteries reignite the fire they are a major hazard. Don’t let these people try to force you into buying an EV.

There are a few hybrids that use nickel metal batteries, these are far more safer. Whether they are good for vehicle usage is another story but avoid any vehicle using lithium ion batteries. Not only they are a fire hazard, the gas released from them are toxic.

I’m waiting on hydrogen that will work on existing internal combustion engines.

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C9000 Eneloop

What’s this a new topic? Yes i’ve been talking about the same topic on this site for quite awhile and i kinda pushed all my other hobby topics out of the way but i had to talk about batteries and chargers. Not only that there has been an outbreak of lithium ion (Li-Ion) batteries exploding, alkaline batteries leaking and so forth so this topic of the day i’m talking about my preferred type and brand of batteries and chargers! This post will be updated to include more information.

The picture above here is a Maha/PowerEx C9000 charger which you won’t find at Walmart! In fact recently i walked into a Walmart store and basically there was hardly any rechargeables at all. Most of them were alkalines or lithiums! Anyway, hopefully that will change to the point where you can find these at any store. First there’s some videos to watch to get familiar with the chargers.


Confused or overwhelmed with information? Well if using a smart analyzer charger such as the C9000 is too many buttons there are other options but for now i’m going to talk about the more advanced stuff. You might think why i would spend so much time on this, well in reality i don’t. Usually i just pop the cells in the charger or when the batteries start acting up i refresh them, which keeps the battery active as storing the cells will weaken them. This kind of goes with the topic what do you need a flashlight for since i have around 10 of them! What else, to see in the dark. I also like camping so there’s no lights or light switches just whatever you have on you. I’m going to get a little bit why it’s about time to get rid of alkalines for rechargeables and how nickel metal hydride (NiMH) batteries really should replace the alkaline battery.

I have had numerous occasions of alkaline batteries leaking in devices such as remotes, flashlights, even a Gameboy or two. Maglites are horrendous, especially the D cell format where those batteries can swell up and get stuck in the flashlight where you need to drill out the battery or find a way to hammer them out in which in the modern LED lights, the LED and switch housing only goes one way which is the same way as the batteries get removed. There’s some tricks other than the drill method but that’s the only method i am aware of and if you are keeping a Maglite as an emergency whether in the house or a car, i wouldn’t store alkalines in there, even if they don’t swell up or leak that moment when you need to use it and the cells just killed your flashlight. More annoyingly the leakage is a pain to clean up and at that point you might as well spend more money to save a bit of time and effort. I have actually used NiMh cells since they were out when only the cheap timer or voltage chargers which only charges in pairs were offered and even then i didn’t buy a whole bunch because it didn’t take long for my Ni-Cad AA cells to die out and that was mostly due to the fact the charger itself died!

But several years later and a different kind of battery came out so i tried those. Again, the charger died. Bought another and then the charger was apparently working but some kind of malfunction occurred where something was wrong with the cells or the cells didn’t last very long. At that point i gave up and went back to alkalines, that was at least until Duracell and Energizer came out with NiMH cells and chargers which i got in 2005. Both chargers still work! The Energizer cells stop working but the Duracells are still moving along even in this LED string light. Some of the cells have gotten too weak though and won’t survive the night which again is nice and brighter than a nightlight. 11 year old cells that has actually been a bit overcharged a bit overdischarged (a couple of cells actually reverse charged which can damage the battery) but it’s proven to me that these cells can work for many years provided i use them in the lower drain devices.

So why are we not using this? Well i have noticed from my first hand experience that rechargeables don’t always work the way we intended and i have learned a few things along the way. First experience may not be the best especially when there are defects either in the charger or the battery. The set of Energizers i had bought in 2005 were discharging faster then the Duracells and the AAA Energizers i bought later in 2006-2007. Even though the chargers still work and i infact use them still on the older batteries they are not the best. They only charge in pairs, only go by voltage or by timer. A realistic charger can charge anywhere from 1-4 batteries for those odd, 1 or 3 cell devices, but even then you want to charge each cell individually since not every cell comes out exactly the same at the factory and may need to charge longer or less. Not only that smart chargers can detect when the cell is full and uses temps as a guide too to stop the charging process.

A couple of interesting features that the C9000 charger has is that you can refresh the cell, cycle the cell, discharge/recharge and break in. Break-in is a bit of an odd feature it purposely overcharges the cell at a low enough rate it won’t actually harm the battery. Sometimes, smart chargers will detect that the battery is full even though the battery was dead 5 minutes ago and you are using a 5 hour charge! So the battery is still dead. Sometimes the battery is really bad but other times the cell has been sitting dormant for too long and that’s where the dumb timer chargers generally come in which can also overcharge the cell. But using the break-in mode on cells that don’t quite get a full charge because the charger terminated the charge before the end of charge. The C9000 has another nice little feature but it greatly depends on how you use them. The charger will terminate or reduce charging current (that’s the amount of charge going into the battery at once) whenever the cell reaches 1.47v. So if you are charging a battery at 2 amps (not recommended unless a C or D cell) it will terminate the cell earlier. Don’t know the exact capacity the cell is at but if you charge a cell at 1 amp it will terminate around 80-90% and top off the cell at 100mA for 2 hours then trickle charges at 10mA. Traditional high self discharge cells benefit from this but also low self discharge batteries such as Eneloops can benefit as well since at 500mA charging rate Eneloops can charge up to 1.52v which is full capacity. The higher the current rate the higher the voltage will be.

 

Eneloops, Fujitsu, Amazon Basics, Ikea Ladda, Duracell and Energizers are the best. Make sure to get the Japan made cells. China made cells are generally lower quality and even though i have Japan cells that don’t work as good as China, Japan Eneloops work the best. Also the video is outdated, Eneloops now carry a 70% charge after 10 years. It’s hard to say how long a healthy, proper use Eneloop would last, they say 2100 cycles but a few tests say that the cycle usage may be shorter or that standard 2100 cycle Eneloops are used in moderate to low drain devices and only discharged to about 40% and charged up to 80%. Not many chargers will terminate charge at 80% if much of any other than the Skyrc MC3000

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D1GHZNO

Which is more advanced than the C9000. Haven’t tried this charger but it’s on my to buy list. The other brand cell battery types such as the Energizer and Duracell may be Eneloop knock offs but they do really well. Take note that generally the higher the capacity of the cell, the less recharges you have. But have greater capacity. NiMH technology has improved so the low self discharge cells are pretty good compared to alkalines but the interesting factor is that you actually can get more run time in higher drain devices with high capacity cells such as Energizer, Duracell and Eneloop Pro. Eneloop Pro has up to 2550mAh capacity. It’s lower than an alkaline capacity but alkalines has such high internal resistance that the voltage sags. Most of the time in higher drain devices such as a flashlight, alkalines still have 30% capacity in reserve but can only be used in low drain devices. Modern flashlights like Maglite or LEDLenser can probably use 80 or 90% of alkalines but the brightness is pretty dim but not unusable. So when you get to 40-50% left in an alkaline, an Eneloop Pro will keep the flashlight shining bright.

Eneloop claims to have their cells precharged but some people are confused to as why they are not getting much of any activity from their device or they have low battery. While Eneloops are pre charged and you can use them right out of the package and it can depend on dates, whether you bought counterfeit cells, they are defective or maybe your device doesn’t work well with NiMh cells in which case the device requires the higher voltage of alkalines and won’t work well with NiMh cells. I have found this to be rare and all of my stuff works just fine with NiMH batteries. Possibly because most newer devices will run on NiMH cells. So which capacity should you get? In most cases the standard 2100 cycle white Eneloops (or another brand) is just fine even with high drain devices because 1900mAh is suitable enough for most. In some cases the Eneloop Pro (or other brand) is ideal but only for those devices that will eat up batteries. Digital cameras, high powered flashlights are best with the Eneloop Pro, you can still use the regular Eneloops with those devices if you wish. While it wouldn’t be practical and i wouldn’t recommend it is if you were to use Eneloop Pro in wall clocks, PC mice/keyboards, transmitters/remotes.. things like that. You would think though that the batteries would last longer in those devices but could you really spend the extra money on cells that you are not really going to notice recharging from 1-2 years to 3 years. It’s actually hard to say how long the Eneloop Pro lasts on a single charge because they only advertise that they hold 80% after a year. Nothing about 2-5 years so really i’d only buy them if you plan on using them. 500 cycles is pretty much standard on higher capacity cells and that’s pretty much the same as lithium ion cells. I have noticed another thing with the Eneloop Pro, if you drain the cell you will be eating up more cycles and there’s not much for recovery.

A standard Eneloop can be drained to 0.4v and hold that voltage no matter what you throw at it and can recover to 1.2v like that while the Eneloop Pro will hang around 1-1.1v. Then again i used these Eneloops in a more powerful flashlight and they are the AAA version. So i don’t really have much to compare it with. Just keep in mind though 1.23v (25%) is more ideal for a resting voltage when to recharge for extended life. I prefer 1.26v (50%) but at the risk of saying this is the reason why it’s almost completely unnecessary to buy the Eneloop Pro if you are not going to use the extended run time you still get more use in between recharges. Not to mention if you are in the need to use that extra run time you got it. So really having a set of Eneloop Pro may be the best thing but keep a minimum stock that you actually use. I tend to cycle through some of my cells especially the higher capacity and the few high self discharge (standard) cells that i have. Since my LEDLenser  T7 takes quite a bit of power, Eneloop Pro does really well. So i have 2 sets of cells for it (8 pack) and a 3rd set of Radioshack 850mAh cells. I use one set of Eneloop Pro more than the other but at least once every 3 months i use the other one. I need a secondary LEDLenser which will be a P7.2.

So with that there are some types of batteries that get iffy, Such as Sunlabz, Rayovac, EBL, Tenergy. The Sunlabz and Tenergy i have had good luck with in the D and 9V format. D cells can be expensive, the proper NiMH D cells, not the ones with the AA cells inside which some manufactures have been doing because as i said, actual D cells can be expensive. Just a 2 pack of Sunlabz can be $16. When you compare that to the massive capacity of a D cell, 10,000mAh it’s almost worth it. Provided you got a charger that works and whether the cell is in good condition. Some reviews are not good that claim the batteries do not work as intended and so far i only have seen a few chargers that use D cells. A really good one is the Maha C808M,

http://www.amazon.com/Maha-MH-C808M-Ultimate-Professional-Batteries/dp/B000E65DG6

Which again can get pretty expensive. It’s hard to say whether the cells are really any good and besides that Sunlabz D cells are not true LSD but doesn’t mean they are really bad either. Regular high self discharge NiMH batteries require regular use and an occasional full discharge or break-in with the C9000. Tenergy has some LSD D cells but they are slightly lower capacity than the Sunlabz cells. This is when D alkalines are more likely to survive and be needed, but again when they leak they leak bad and they can swell up so if you can’t justify paying upwards of $130 for a good charger and a set of cells you will be in trouble if you leave the alkalines in the device. So that would be the tradeoff. There are also AA > D adapters but you get reduced runtime, even with 3AA Eneloop Pro that would be at 7650mAh which isn’t too bad compared to 10,000mAh so it may not be noticeable but you would need 9AA batteries if you got a Maglite 3D.  You would need a 10+ battery charger and i don’t know any i could recommend. Even then i am using adapters on my C9000 that allows me to charge D cells but it’s sort of clunky to use all the time. Great if i need to check out the status of the cells but other than that i’d need the C808M charger.
I will soon add links and more to this later on, no time frame as of yet but i wanted to put this out there and hopefully will encourage people to get more into rechargeables. There’s quite a bit of alkalines on the shelves and while it’s not just the environment/resources the price point of buying NiMh cells provided that they are well taken care of and work to begin with, could save plenty of money as well as having to clean up alkaline messes. Some people do still prefer alkalines over NiMh and i have found you could recharge alkalines but there is a risk of them leaking. I have been experimenting only putting them on my La Crosse BC1000 charger at 200mAh for 5 minutes. That seems to work fine provided they were used in a low drain device. I don’t have enough AAA’s so in a pinch i recharged some alkalines i had handy but they didn’t have any charge left in them. It works but got to be careful and i don’t store them in the device so there’s no harm in if they leak. it’s not recommended to recharge them though there are youtube videos of people recharging them like regular rechargeables. If they were charging them for 3-6 hours, the risk of them leaking increases. They say it’s cheaper than buying rechargeables but i’d say they just don’t want to spend the money to getting a proper recharging setup.

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